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Berlin Residency Journal

By: C. Morey De Morand

2006-12-20

First impression of the residency: Kafkaesque. It appears as an institution, possibly a police headquarters or seminary for lay priests. Silent corridors, steel doors, absorbed figures pass by, some speaking German. Then the typical clues of paint splatters, lumps of carved wood, dispel the heaviness. The silent figures smile, laugh, and are most engagingly earnest in their desire to smooth my initial settling in.

 Marc Haselbach, Berlin Artist

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Marc Haselbach, Berlin Artist

 Lisabetta Sonneck, Berlin Artist

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Lisabetta Sonneck, Berlin Artist

 Kastanienallee Night, Berlin

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Kastanienallee Night, Berlin

 Berlin Studio, C. Morey de Morand

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Berlin Studio, C. Morey de Morand

# 96 [28 July 2007]

Taking the paintings off the stretchers and rolling them up. The Milchhof really came into its own with friendliness and helpfulness. First, big handsome burly bearded Mark asked the driver of the van going to the Köln Art fair, also Mark and a sculptor, if he could take my stuff to the shippers, as well as giving me good practical advice. Mark, second, said he would get all the stuff into the van and then possibly he could take the rolls on the roof. Meanwhile Volka, kind Volka, offered to drive all my stuff to the shippers for me. Fantastic. We got the stuff together and set off at four o'clock. Each painting in a plastic drainpipe weighed 4.55 Kg, just as George Pusenkoff had predicted. The four small paintings in a package weighed 6.4 Kg, and the incredibly heavy suitcase that I could not lift weighed 35.33 Kg. So it all went well because of great fellow feeling support and help those artists gave me. That definitely is Berlin.

 

Another pleasure was visiting Lisabetta's studio and seeing her delicate soft works. Very lovely and wonderful for me, as Lisabetta is also a colourist working through intuition, and not from a closed, imposed system. We had a lot to discuss about the materials, technique, and general approaches to our art.

Cathy the artist in the studio above me came to tell me about some private views opening tonight, and Carlos, the architect and artist and I had a discussion about our work as he had visited my website. All in all just the sort of rewarding inter-relation with other artists that one longs for and normally doesn't often happen. It was a terrific feeling.Late in the warm evening we stopped for an ice cream outside on Orderbergerstrasse and were astounded by the number of people, (and bicycles parked), in the Biergarten next door. Exactly like a Renoir painting of the masses at leisure, or a Pleasure garden this Biergarten was closed up, invisible, until a week ago. How magical it all is.

 with Ismalya, Gareth, Anna, Tom

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with Ismalya, Gareth, Anna, Tom

 Cindy from the Art Shop (Kunstler Magazin)

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Cindy from the Art Shop (Kunstler Magazin)

C. Morey De Morand, ‘Khaki with Yellow overlay’, Acrylic on linen, 60x50cm,.Berlin Series.

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C. Morey De Morand, ‘Khaki with Yellow overlay’, Acrylic on linen, 60x50cm,.
Berlin Series.

 Berlin Wall (Faces)

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Berlin Wall (Faces)

# 95 [24 July 2007]

The Finnissage. 

More face shots for My Berlin Wall to put up in London.  The people who came that had been to the Opening, got their prints of their first shot to take home.  It was fun.  I was so delighted to see people like the lovely helpful serious girl from the art shop, and beautiful French Cecile taking time off from her Le Monde reportage, as well as the artists from the Milchhof and elsewhere that have been so significant to my experience of Berlin.  I have been truly fortunate getting to know all these different and fascinating artists, writers, architects, and filmmakers.

C. Morey De Morand, ‘Violet, Brown, Orange’, Acrylic on linen, 60x50cm.Berlin Series.

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C. Morey De Morand, ‘Violet, Brown, Orange’, Acrylic on linen, 60x50cm.
Berlin Series.

# 94 [23 July 2007]

 Time is fleeting and soon my existence here will become but an ephemeral bright memory. 

St. George's English Bookshop with its inimitable charm and weekly film showings.  How I will miss you.  This week it was WHEN A WOMAN ASCENDS THE STAIRS (1960) by Mikio Naruse, it is a film about Keiko, a bar hostess in Tokyo's Ginza district. At age 30 she is senior to almost all her colleagues. Her life is in crisis as she is nearly too old for her profession of tending to lascivious and drunk businessmen and pretending to enjoy it.  Well yes a lot of the films are depressing, but so gratifying, satisfying, extending  in so many ways.  It is a whole enriching experience.  The great people and the exhilarating  ambience with the deep leather sofas, not to forget the books as well as the films, and tonight homemade delicious feta cheese and spinach sandwich wraps for 1 euro to go with the wine.  What cosiness.  One really feels amongst a like-minded coterie.  

St. George's English Bookshop, Würther Strasse, Tuesday nights.  Go there!

  

 Liepzig Stasi Museum Photo Evidence Mail Censorship

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Liepzig Stasi Museum Photo Evidence Mail Censorship

 Liepzig Stasi Museum Photo Dogs Tracking From Body Odour Jars

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Liepzig Stasi Museum Photo Dogs Tracking From Body Odour Jars

 Liepzig Stasi Museum Photo Evidence Following People

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Liepzig Stasi Museum Photo Evidence Following People

 Liepzig Stasi Real Death Waiting Cell

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Liepzig Stasi Real Death Waiting Cell

# 93 [12 July 2007]

In Leipzig The Stasi Headquarters was fascinating with its low-tech displays of espionage and grim control.  Frightening but ludicrous with its wigs and false noses, jars of body odours collected so that sniffer dogs could track the victims, photographs of surveillance on foot, bicycle, cars; photographs taken by secret cameras in a book or from their pockets wearing false moustaches and spectacles.  It sounds comic but the purpose was deadly. 

In this building all the DDR prisoners awaiting the death sentence were kept in bleak small cells.  The entire killings, executions, were carried out in Liepzig.  While they were subjugating and terrorising the people, the Stasi building had a bowling alley and cinema for their own staff. 

It is said that the Stasi buildings all had the same unique smell and that it still lingers here.  Anyone who was interrogated or kept in a cell there recognises it instantly.  Was it the paint, or linoleum, or brutality and fear mixed?  To me it had a musty institutional slight smell, but would I recognise it again?

  

 Liepzig, Nikolaikirche - Baroque Interior, Ornate Ceiling

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Liepzig, Nikolaikirche - Baroque Interior, Ornate Ceiling

 Liepzig - J. S. Bach

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Liepzig - J. S. Bach

 Liepzig - Alte Borse & Goethe

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Liepzig - Alte Borse & Goethe

 Liepzig, Thomaskirche - JS Bach Choirmaster

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Liepzig, Thomaskirche - JS Bach Choirmaster

 Liepzig - Neo Rauch Woodsman

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Liepzig - Neo Rauch Woodsman

# 92 [9 July 2007]

Leipzig on the other hand, was a moving experience seeing the old Baroque buildings and the churches where Bach's music was created and performed.  At the Bildenden Künste I was able to see more of the much sought after Leipzig School painters.  Neo Rauch being the most impressive, and disturbing.  They carry an unsettling conviction as if something murderous or impure might happen at any moment or has happened already.  Peter Doight has a slight, much weaker feeling in his works, but there is some connection in mystery or ambiguity to this.

 In the forest, Potsdam

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In the forest, Potsdam

 Still Derelict, Potsdam

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Still Derelict, Potsdam

 Einsrein's Tower, Potsdam

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Einsrein's Tower, Potsdam

# 91 [7 July 2007]

Today was actually not that brilliant, spitting rain, nevertheless, I decided to go to Potsdam to see Einstein's Tower.  It s often cited as one of the few landmarks of expressionist architecture  and is an astrophysical observatory  in the Albert Einstein Science Park in Potsdam, designed by architect Erich Mendelsohn  It was built for astronomer Erwin Finlay Freundlich to support experiments and observations to validate Albert Einstein 's relativity theory. 

What I hadn't realised before I set off was how far I had to walk.  At the train station where there is no tourist bureau of course, with the help of some young kids and a passing man, possibly a railway employee, I was faced in the right direction and told, ‘must walk, keep going to left.  In fact there was that arterial road desolation in front of the station, with the town some distance away and the Wild Park woods far away in the opposite direction.  Walking for an hour up hill, I thought, ‘surely it will be marked'.  Wrong.  Finally, stopping a lone cyclist, I asked, ‘Einstein's Tower bitte?'  He said I had to go back then turn right then left.  A completely unmarked track had me doubtful but I saw a man and a dog coming towards me and asked, ‘Einstein's Tower bitte?'  Evidently it was the right direction and I had to just keep going.  All I could see was trees.  No tower.  Until I saw a gate, locked, and wire fencing stretching into the distance.  Those people I asked told me what I had asked for, directions to the tower.  I hadn't asked is it open to visit, to see?  Following the wire fencing for quite awhile I still couldn't see anything but trees.  So it was in there somewhere.  The guidebooks don't even mention it so I can't grumble that they didn't say that it was closed.

Looking it up on the Internet later, one can see its' distinctive penile extension form that must have been one of Foster's inspirations for his ‘Gherkin' in London.  Its' a guy thing, but amazing.  Wish I could have seen it.

Ditto with the Bildergalerie at Sans Souci, which is the oldest surviving royal gallery in Germany.  A large number of paintings were taken by Russia in 1946, some have been returned, but perhaps not enough, as the guidebooks don't mention it.  I won't know because again, it wasn't open.  Sans Souci was not open on the Holiday, its statuary all boxed up and hidden from view.  I had walked back through the woods, then past empty derelict buildings along the canal into the town centre.  Even if one had thought ahead and brought a picnic lunch, the windy, spitting rain wasn't conducive to any such dallying.  It was an enormous amount of walking.  In the town central area, the Dutch Husimand area with its' fine-looking long street of Dutch style houses  was built to attract Dutch settlers, who didn't come because Holland at that time was very wealthy and Potsdam poor.  Now it is a a historical novelty, rather twee.  I had come at the wrong time.  I trudged back to the railway station along its bleak approach.

My tip is: Don't bother to go to Potsdam.   (Or if you do, don't go on a holiday, and not on weekends).

C. Morey De Morand, ‘Green Berlin Painting’, Acrylic on linen, 170x150x4cm.

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C. Morey De Morand, ‘Green Berlin Painting’, Acrylic on linen, 170x150x4cm.

# 90 [2 July 2007]

Two quotes:

Nietzsche- ‘Collective celebration has been replaced by the hell of individual existence'.

Nora Ephron- ‘Never marry a man you wouldn't want to be divorced from'.

A couple of weeks ago I'd gone to the exhibition opening of photographs of the Vanuata Islands and met the designer who turned out to be a New Zealander.  Today, she came over to the Milchhof for a visit with her thirteen-month son.  Typically she'd been living in London and had come to Berlin for a symposium and liked the friendly, laid back openness of this easy to get around smaller city.  When an offer of a job here was made she took it, but not speaking any German when she came, she found it difficult, however she then met the German photographer and has now settled in.  Nevertheless she still finds the long darkness of the winters oppressive, and tries to visit New Zealand at that time if she can.  Since I have lived in New Zealand and know the exhilaration of its' clear air, and having just gone through a Berlin winter I can sympathise. 

As well as talking about New Zealand, we both had a rave about Berlin's cheapness and easy living.  Berlin has come alive.  It is a totally changed, open place now.  Instead of emptiness and darkness, the streets are filled with people day and night, eating, reading, talking, drinking, all outside as much as possible.  Still, it is the longed-for contrast that makes it so delightful, so precious that Berliners take advantage of it immediately and rush outdoors.  To me, Berlin looks a completely different city from what it was when I arrived in December.

C. Morey De Morand, ‘Yellow Berlin Painting’, 170x150x4cm.acrylic on linen.

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C. Morey De Morand, ‘Yellow Berlin Painting’, 170x150x4cm.
acrylic on linen.

# 89 [25 June 2007]

The Academie der Kunste second part of the Site and Space exhibition is at the Hanseatenweg building that has a Henry Moore Reclining Figure outside.  There was a time when no building was complete without a Henry Moore outside it.  They're dotted around the world all over the place, but does anyone ever look at them now and say ‘I want to make sculpture just like that?'

This exhibition is really a catchall to show anything they can get hold of, which I don't mind, as there are terrific things in it.  Here there was an extremely fascinating mixture of Man Ray photographs, Picasso sculpture, painting and drawings, Marcel Duchamp's reproduction of ‘The Large Glass,' a film of the Alexander Calder ‘Circus', a film of a Samuel Beckett play, Morandi paintings, Klee paintings, Max Ernst early paintings, an exquisite tiny drawing by Malevich as well as paintings, a large sculpture by Louise Bourgeois of what looked like a large bunch of penises bunched together like asparagus, perhaps growing like that, but carved or cast in what looks like a rose marble but could be a polymer.  So all of that, did I mention Matisse, Bonnard, and Nauman all in the same breath too?

What stood out, apart from the intense pleasure of looking at a good selection of works each, from all the above, was a shockingly authentic film by Jean Genêt, ‘L'Amour'.  It distils poetry out of violence and is compelling to watch, however brutal.  A very long way from contemporary camp anonymity.  I stood and watched it all the way through, but mostly other people would look transfixed for a few seconds and then seemed to get uneasy and move on quickly once they realized what was going on in this prison with the prison guard and the prisoner who had the sexual power.  That plus films by Gordon Matta-Clark and others by Jean Painlevé suggesting the Fourth Dimension, were riveting.  What a lot of great works to see. 

One film of Gordon Matta-Clark showed him pasting up advertisements and then graffiti ‘From the USSR with Love' on the Western side of the Berlin Wall when it was pristine white, and being questioned by the guards as to what he was doing.  This was in 1976 and that means that he must have been the first to do graffiti on the wall, so starting the avalanche that followed.  Historically that is important.  It was touching to see the West Berliners queuing up to go up a staircase to a platform contraption so that they could look over the wall at the East where perhaps their home had been.  They weren't giving even a glance at what Matta-Clark was doing with his art pasting and spraying cleverness.  Like Banksy at the Israeli Palestinian wall.  Maybe it takes outsiders just to kick things off.

 60 x 50 cm. Green with Red and Maroon Check Berlin Series

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60 x 50 cm.
Green with Red and Maroon Check Berlin Series

# 88 [22 June 2007]

A last bowl of borsht with Tom at Gorky Park as he's off to England for a few weeks break from being a Berliner artist.

Clement Greenberg writes:  ‘I think a poor life is lived by anyone who doesn't regularly take time out to stand and gaze, or sit and listen, or touch, or smell, or brood, without any further end in mind, simply for the satisfaction gotten from that which is gazed at, listened to, touched, smelled, or brooded upon.'  Uniquely, these past four months in Berlin have been for me, saturated with all that.  Time and space given my full attention as the days and light unfolded.

 C. Morey de Morand discussing work Berlin

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C. Morey de Morand discussing work Berlin

C. Morey De Morand, ‘Blue Berlin Painting’, 170x150x4cm.

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C. Morey De Morand, ‘Blue Berlin Painting’, 170x150x4cm.

# 87 [20 June 2007]

Friedrich Nietzsche, ‘Thus Spake Zarathustra':  Let us at least talk of us, you who are visual, grim though it may be.  Remaining silent is grimmer, all truths that are kept silent become toxic.'  His troubled mind seems to float on a sea of violent hurt anger; the open wound delineating tenderness and much sensitivity, yet easily swings to sepsis.  Undoubtedly, careful reading and searching thoughtfulness can dig into oneself for interpretation of meaning, going beyond the surface slogans that appear to promote horrors.  As when it is written, ‘For far too long woman has harboured a slave and a tyrant within.'  So one thinks about that as well as, ‘Die at the right time.'  But when he writes, ‘you are going to women?  Then don't forget the whip!' even if preceded by ‘hold its mouth shut: or else it will cry over loudly this little truth.'  Then it would take a huge amount of exploratory rationale for me to accept that as reasonable or valid.  Stinking chauvinism I say.

I am going to take a break from all that deep searching, and with relief read volume four of ‘Clement Greenberg, The Collected Essays and Criticism, Modernism with a Vengeance', edited by John O'Brian, University of Chicago Press.  He writes intelligently, simply, joyfully, with conviction.  I especially enjoy his ripping into other critics and putting them right.

  

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C. Morey De Morand

Painter abstract. Doing four months residency in Berlin
> C. Morey de Morand
> Studio 112,
> Milchhof e.V.
> Schwedter Str. 232-234
> D - 10435
> Germany

 

colettemoreydemorand@yahoo.co.uk